JGSDF Type 89 IFV

 

Construction starts with the wheels. The polycaps are kind of retro. 

Pin marks on the inner (but outward facing) road wheels may be visible after assembly. They're too deep to sand or file off, so I will fill them. How come there are no pin marks on the inside of the outer road wheels?! 

Removed molded tie-downs from the front, drilled holes, and used fine wire to replace them. 

The idler arms have ejector pin marks on the front that need filling. They're visible even after the wheels are on. Why didn't they put them on the back? 

The return rollers are funky. They fit on their axles on a semi-circle peg, but aren't centered on the axles. I used the large semi-circle hole, but I think they're suppose to go on the smaller hole.  

Up to step 8. Put the back on, thinned the door handle, and added wire grab irons. Only 15 more steps to go! 

Oops! Had to tear out half the tie-downs and both front tow shackles to add a prominent weld seam where armor plates overlap. 

The anti-skid pads have no texture. 

I added texture by painting each pad with plastic cement, and stippling them with a stiff brush while the were still wet. 

To ensure I can fill unsightly seam lines easily, it is better to not follow the instructions, but assemble the entire hull first. 

I wish I hadn't completed the rear (as per instructions) prior to assembling the hull. The seam lines were hard to fill with all the details in the way. 

Seam filling on sides. Pistol ports and wire handles were installed before closing the hull because interior access was needed. Consider the driver's periscopes too (but I'm not using them). 

The holes for some parts, like periscopes, are too big, so some filling is needed., 

Worse problem yet, the rear fender does not line up with the side apron (sticks out too far). This will require major surgery! 

Beside the driver's periscopes, there are 10 other scopes on the body. ALL 10 have a deep pin mark on the lens face that must be filled! Grrrrrrrr! 

Working on the fender fix 

The kit part filed down and built back up to look like prototype 

New fender installed! 

Shave down around access holes on the inside of the skirts, or they will look too thick. The kit bevels the outer edges of the skirt for you, but not the access holes. 

Used the kit tow cable shackles but replaced the cable with nylon thread. Added wire cable hooks, as seen on the real machine. 

On to the turret. First thing is to replace the molded-on stowage loops with wire. 

Tie-down loops attached. 

Added photo-etch smoke dispenser chains from Aber. 

The kit comes with a rubber gun-mantle flap and wire for the missile boxes. I added the end plugs on the wire with plastic rod.